The knob serves not only as a lid to fix the rubber, which holds the air tight.
It also adjusts the force of tightness. While the pump is new, do not tighten the knob to the limit,
so the rubber does not wear out rapidly.
When the rubber is worn out, tighten the knob. The rubber will contract more. When there's no space for tightening left, I suggest you manufacture an insert - a ring with a hole - , and put it under the knob. The insert will compress the rubber stronger, which will contract greater.
Do not pull too hard on the lever. Or else it breaks. Better investigate why it does
not go. Maybe the knob has compressed the rubber too hard, so there no way to compress it even harder.
In winter both the rubber and the plastic become stiff. In the frost of -27°C it is too difficult to compress. You may break the lever off easier.
Please do not discard a broken pump. You can repair it. I do have some spare parts. Others you can make yourself. Do not discard the broken parts into the common trash. They can be sorted into special containers for plastic waste near your house. The metal rod goes into scrap metal. The pump has only 2 metal parts (without manometer) or 3 (with manometer). Remove those metal parts and utilize. The rest is plastic - also recycleable.
Do not cary the pump uncovered. Keep it in a bag, or poket. If you fix it to a frame of a bike, then you'd lose it. ... Or you'd lose the tightening knob, if it unwinds for vibration. ... Or somebody steals it.
Length: 23cm (228mm without manometer, and 227mm - with). Fits into bicycle bags.
In the winter it fits into an elongated pocket of my coat.
4.00 € - without manometer;
6.88 € - with manometer.
Forget the pumps made in Soviet times and many contemporary ones, which suck out as much air as they pump in. In addition, Soviet pumps produce lots of heat at the hose. A bad pump makes you tired: you have to pump fast and ceaselessly. Otherwise you get very little pressure, or you might let the air out. Regardless of this, quite a few people esteem such pump as "very good".
If the the valve is short,
it protrudes from the rim too little. This pump will envelop it insufficiently.
The pin will fail to reach the plunger of the valve. Then you may attach a hose to the pump.
On its end a hose has a metal cap. It is tapped... You can tighten it securely onto the valve...
and quite shorter one too. Hoses are not particularly air tight. But they do work.
You buy a hose separately elsewhere.
A bare rubber of a hose would burst, if pressure exceeds 1-2 bar (a bicycle requires between 4 and 10). The hose has to be either very thick (uncomfortably stiff), or armoured on the exterior with cloth.
In the olden days of Soviet Union bicycles for daily use (commuting)
had pressure of just 2 bar. That's why they were producing hoses without armouring cloth.
Do not try to use such on a modern bike. You would break the thing to no avail.
Some Lithuanians keep hoses in store since the old days. You may find new ones to buy too.
They still produce hoses in Belorussia - boths armoured, and not.
They still posess, and produce bikes with low pressure. So, you may still encounter a hose without armour.
On my Lithuanian page prices are in Litas. They are in the last row of the table there.
1 Lt = 0.28962 € = 0.35743 USD.
Why use cycling shoes? They are too hot and humid inside.
Use sandals instead. Ventilation is great.
The ones, which I sell, do not have clips for pedals. Perhaps you could attach some clips by yourself. Or use them as is.
They are sturdy, and comfortable for walking, and riding.
Below I describe the frames.
Material: alumin alloy, stiffer and stronger than usual. You can make a big cut, or dent into the metal, yet it continues to run well, and does not break.
User can select colour, and one's own logotypes (inscriptions).
Geometry can be changed too. But it is good already.
Types of use: Touring/Trekking ("Hybrid"), Cyclo Cross (sport equivalent of "Vamzdiec" - an event of Lithuanian travelers), "MTB", "Tandem", "Road", "Track".
Below (in section "Custom touring bikes") you find a picture of my bike assembled on one of such frames. Manufacturer made custom modifications to the frame, according to my order. Without those modifications this frame is bad. With them - excellent.
What is so special about my racks?
They simply stand up to any load.
They do not wobble under heavy loads.
Rods do not collapse. Nor they cave in, and crack. - Contrary to racks made of hollow rods (tubes).
This combines with the exceptionally stable frame of my bike.
Yes, there's some extra weight to the rack. But weight is essential to strength and reliability. In theory a lighter design is possible. But it is more difficult to produce, and nobody makes it anyway. There might be a bigger discussion. But let's leave it to the future.
Once I was ran over by a car. The driver attacked me with a bumper of his car on purpose.
He hit the rear wheel from the back. My front wheel lifted, and the bike turned over to a side.
Then the bumper pushed against my rear rack from the side.
It bent the rods of the rack towards the wheel from that side.
An excess force by hand - all it took to restore the rack to roughly the same shape as before. The wheel was not damaged at all. That's what I call strength.
Even when the rack is heavily bent, and twisted it never yields to the load, and never collapses. You may carry people or other animals safely on it. The rack is strong, and stable. It withstands any abuse.
Racks made of hollow tubes eventually cave in from bending.
Often they crack and collapse. Racks made of aluminium will crumble.
Racks made of steel will flex and bend... and sometimes break.
I have been through all this before.
Designers of bicycle parts never ride bikes themselves. And even when they do, they perhaps ride like saggy bags on roof tops of their cars.
I destroyed many racks. ... Till I was fed up, and made my own racks that do work.
The article in Lithuanian is here.
I manufacture custom cog-wheels. Front rings, and rear cassettes.
Material: any. May even be wood, or paper.
Shape: any. May even be triangular, or square... May have inscriptions, or ornaments.
Purpose: extending the life of a chain. You can reuse a worn chain as long as it is safe, and intact. Usually twice the normal wear is safe enough.
Replacing cogs individually. An ordiary set of cogs requires to rather replace all parts in bulk: all the cogs, and the chain, because a worn chain does not fit a new cog - it skips.
Custom cogs allow replacing them according to the actual wear, rather than myth or prejudice.
Rear cassettes of cog wheels usually share the same design of a mounting hole.
So only a number of teeth, and thickness is required.
Regarding rear cogs, I make only casettes - not "wind-on" blocks.
Hubs, which are designed for "wind-on" blocks of cogs, (threaded hubs) are too frail. They are to be avoided at all costs.
For any cog wheel - front and rear - I require an additional number:
the extent of wear of the chain (length over 10 links, see below).
If it is a new chain, then no matching is required - a standard, factory made cog would do. I primarily make cogs, which you can't find in shops.
I would manufacture a cog wheel to match the individual chain. So that the chain works again a long time.
In theory - an unlimited time, until pins of links start breaking. You just have to keep replacing the cogs.
In practice, for reasons of safety, I apply the mentioned "twice the normal wear". - It is my arbitrary rule of thumb.
But you would need a good chain. Otherwise it is no use - it would wear quickly.
I have some good chains in stock. I can sell one for 12€. Or 15€ including a fee for training on how to mount the chain.
Example. A set of 3 front, and 6 rear cogs: about 44-50€.
I mention the 6 rear cogs, because the 1 or 2 smallest ones are usually not worn. So, they do not require replacement. Besides, their manufacturing is more expensive and complex, because they are not flat. They rather have protruding parts, like integrated spacers, and a thread.
The cogs would work well enough. But they would not be formed identically to those made in a factory.
When switching gears, performance may slightly differ. Sportsmen may sometimes find this important. You - probably not.
I can make as many teeth as you wish. A difference of a few teeth does not influence the price.
When a chain is worn?
Myth: when it is elongated by 3%.
Fact: when it is skipping on all cogs. Not just on one cog.
As a fact, you replace a worn chain, when it skips on all cogs.
Then you may throw the chain into scrap metal, or reuse it with my custom cogs,
and thus extend its life.
You may order only the skipping cogs individually. Other cogs may still be working well.
E.g. a rear cog may be worn, while the front cog is still in a good shape even for a new chain. This is a special quality of my cogs - they smooth out the wear.
How to measure the wear of a chain?
In order to match a new cog to an individual worn chain I need to know its extent of wear.
As I mentioned, it may be worthwhile to replace even 1 cog. Yet if both the chain, and all other cogs exhibit an excessive wear, then perhaps it is time to replace all the parts?
Over 10 years ago I have analyzed and publicly described the process of wear of a chain.
Then I invented and specified an objective measure of the extent of wear of the chain.
You simply have to measure the span (the length) over 10 links.
One link is half an inch long - 12.7mm. 10 links = 127mm.
The greater the number of links, the greater is your precision. Yet 10 links is more convenient, and still it is precise enough.
With time most manufacturers have adopted the new approach, based on length, rather than on
myth. They have even produces a special tool: a chain wear indicator.
But they have taken precision and knowledge away from the user. It indicates percent instead of millimeters.
0% - new chain.
3% - worn.
Cosider that using a sliding caliper (a kind of vernier gauge) you can measure to a greater precision,
and have more information on the progress of wear, as a function of time, or weather.
127mm - new chain.
129.1...130.1mm - worn.
The latter range means that the wear of a chain depends on cog wheels. On some cog wheels the chain becomes worn sooner - at 129.1mm. On others later - at 130.1mm.
The obvious conclusion is that a chain wear tool is a hoax. It is a ploy to waste your money. It distracts you from buying descent home appliance tools, like a sliding caliper.
A not so obvious conclusion, is that most manufacturers of cog wheels make them in a racing style.
A chain gets worn on them sooner rather than later. The supposed advantage is slightly better shifting,
and slightly less weight.
But where is the user in the decision making?
Ordinary users are concerned with durability. Most are not in a race, or any kind of sports. Most do not like replacing parts as frequently as professional sports people do.
In fact, professional sports people could not care less about cycling. For them it is just a business, just a job. Afterwards they jump into a car to take a new dose of drugs, and burn petrol.
Early swapping of chains. (Rotation of chains.)
You may replace a chain earlier than it starts skipping.
For example, if you notice that your chain wears sooner than the cog wheels,
you may remove the chain. You remove it, when it elongates by as little as 1mm (see above).
At this degree of wear a cog wheel would still work with a new chain.
Store the old chain for the next round. You replace it with a new chain. Repeat till the cog wheels are worn.
Then order a new set of cog wheels from me. Use it to complete the round of wear of the stored chains, till they elongate by about 6mm (twice the standard wear).
It would not be practical to use new standard cog wheels with the stored, partially worn chains. A worn chain "destroys" a new cassette quicker. If you are not using my custom cogs, you better not swap chains at all... Or dispose of partially worn chains, without reusing them. Reusing them on standard (not custom) cogs makes no sense.
If a chain wears synchronously with cogs, then the mentioned early swapping is not necessary.
Early swapping is not feasible with chains of poor quality. Such a chain gains the mentioned elongation of 1mm quicker than 7000km of ride. - Usually after 500km. ... Which is too much trouble.
If we don't count minor repairs, like clearing dirt from cables stuck in their casings, and tightening some bolts. Of course I did replace the chain and cogs. But they wear in any bike. Yet my cogs (see the article above) and chains wear out after 14000-20000km. Ordinary bikes wear out after 1500-3000km. Say "thank you" to your supermarkets and even to specialized bicycle shops.
The bike is of touring type. It is complete, sturdy. Parts of MTB and cyclo-cross grade, highly durable, cost effective. The ultimate all-round machine.
The bike is not suited for MTB sport, though. Unless you choose a smaller frame and smaller frame.
I mean a true MTB sport. Not mere wandering among the hills. The bike negotiates down complex paths well. It handles well.
Weight of the bicycle with a rear rack, and without mudguards: 15kg.
The bike, which was stolen from me back in 2002, had a heavier frame of steel, made by Baltik Vairas (Panther). With mudguards, and both racks it weighed 19kg. Alas, it was considerably softer, and it had lever brakes (saving weight). While my current bike is absolutely stiff - there's no sway even when I carry a human on a rack.
A soft bike sways mainly for its frame. There may also be other causes.
Cost of ownership.
Of parts really suffering from attrition remain only the chain and cogs. With chains currently available in Lithuania this bike will run about 20000km, especially if you grease it properly.
Apart from maintenance of winter tyres, and a recovery from being "slightly" overrun by a car, there was no essential repair to my bike since I assembled it in August 2003 (I ride each day, year round).
I started assembling these bikes after a failed search for a good one. I decided not to invest in expensive or cheap bikes available around, which are yet of ordinary constitution. I had a bike stolen. Yet I patiently walked on feet for 9 months, and waited for my own design to emerge.
Non-experienced cyclists should rely completely on my choice of parts, which is optimal:
non essential parts are drop cheap, though they are reliable and weigh less than professional ones.
Cyclists, who have specific ideas regarding the design, may ask for parts of their own choice.
But of your favourite parts I will supply only the higher quality (and possibly price).
I will not supply low quality parts, which might seem cheaper to you.
Each part that I choose has specific reasons for being in my bike. No trade-offs, please!
I do not supply detailed lists of parts. Each time the list changes, depending on changes in available supply. The brief overview of technical ideology below is more than enough.
You do need to know, that the front crank set is triple with removable cog-wheels, the largest of which is of about 50 cogs (may vary). But the actual model is of no relevance.
My bike, complete with both racks, and mudguards, costs about: 2800Lt (810 €) (front rack and mudguards are not on the picture yet).
You don't find these bikes in the shops, of course.
You may ask for any inscription or name on the frame, for any color. All inscriptions are done during the paint job - under the varnish.
Axles come in three shapes. I recommend axles with square ends.
Below I list what I have in stock.
|Mode of attachment of a crank to an axle||Example, comment||Lengths||Prices|
A crank is attached onto a round axle, and fixed by a wedge.
Fits the old style and Soviet bikes.
|136mm||With plastic cups, fitting frames 64-68mm wide: 5€|
Currently the most widespread
|110, 113, 115.5, 119, 122.5, 127mm.||With plastic cups, fitting frames 64-68mm wide: 5€ (4.50€);|
With aliuminum cups, fitting frames 68-72mm wide: 7.30€.
Known as "ISIS".
I consider as good only axles of high quality, with rubber sealing, and rotating easily. These axles do rotate easily. Yet the effort is still noticeable. Earlier I have encountered other 2 makes of cartridges, which rotate easier (one - just slightly, the other - entirely freely). However they are not on the market, not at least here. Majority of other brackets sold in Lithuania exhibit rough rotation.
Other products of this manufacturer: industrial bearings, and measurement devices (rulers, scales, micrometers, angles, levels, tree trunk meters). Please ask for a complete list and catalogues in PDF.
Bearings for bicycles I have in stock (not all). Other items would take some time to arrive on your request.
Sign above the door reads: "Geras dviratis".
And just below: "Dviraciu Centras".
Don't be mistaken. As a habit Egidijus copied the name of the shop of his former employer.
Egidijus runs the shop...
He is the bicycle repairs man, who previously worked in Panevezys... Later he worked in Vilnius at Dviraciu Centras (that shop no longer exists).
Now, to our benefit, he opened his own shop. The shop's name roughly reflects the content.
Ask for a good bicycle. Then he provides, or advises at least.
Do not ask for a cheap one. He would either expel you, or give what you are asking for, without any burden on his conscience.
He doesn't refrain from stocking junk though. ... to please the "mass consumer".
I advised him to demark this clearly by notes, and placards. So that a visitor knows what one is looking at. He promised to do so, when time allows. (Very little hope of that.)
Currently he brings bicycles mainly from greater suppliers (wholesalers).
Rarely he carries supplies independently. So he is not in complete control of his supply.
The nice thing is that you can negotiate custom constitution of a new bike. Egidijus speaks English.
If you need repairs, I advise him. This doesn't mean, that he doesn't make mistakes, or that he doesn't have false theories.
Long ago he was very stubborn on this.
But now you can negotiate and argue with him.
Don't be set back by his dismissive tone. He gets annoyed by talks of cheap bikes.
He employs Aivoras. Previously Aivoras worked for several other bike shops.
The staff of this shop does not use bicycle regularly. They commute by car. This is a sad fact. But they do ride bikes freqently. They are quite knowledgeable bike mechanics. They are involved in the local community of bicyclists.
Readily helps, advises, listens. Strives to carry good stuff. Not once I received from him fancy stuff missing elsewhere. Yet, he doesn't mind stocking poor stuff - for the "mass consumer".
I didn't have a chance to carry out repairs with him. But I know that he is experienced. Currently he has a partner, who makes a bad influence on him. Though, maybe they both share similar views regarding quality.
Lately Gintarius distanced himself from any bicycling community. He reclused himself into his petty business. He was a formal member of a Council of the Lithuanian Bicyclists Community (LDB). But he did not resist in any way the scoundrels, who hijacked it.
When pseudo business (selfishness) replaces the enthusiasm, then bicycles become no more... alas...
My comments on this man are available only in Lithuanian so far. You may find them here.
My notion is that quality is related to psychology. These guys have several times endorced the use
of stolen bikes. Sometimes knowingly, sometimes unknowingly. I presume they do such talk out of mere
ignorance, and lack of consideration. - Not out of malice.
I tried to argue with one of them about this. He said he was not joking.
There is a huge problem in Lithuania. Soon we will have half the population of cyclists riding bicycles
stolen from western countries - from Germany, Denmark, Holland, Sweden, Finland, Norway, and even Britain.
Already about one third of all students ride stolen bikes. Most do not give a damn about this.
I trust I will be able to persuade this particular repairs workshop to promote responsibility among their customers. If I fail, I would remove this link.
The rest of my comments on this workshop are available in Lithuanian.